Picture this: You’re relaxing in the sun on a chaise lounge in Mexico, gazing out over a turquoise infinity pool that’s juxtaposed with the crashing waves of Los Cabos beaches behind it. Fresh, slightly spicy ceviche, crispy fish tacos, and some grilled pulpo, or octopus, are laid out beside you on a tray, ready to eat. And to drink—well, it’s Mexico, so surely you’re having a margarita or mezcal-based sugary cocktail, right? Instead, the waiter brings over a bottle of Dominios de las Abejas’s sustainable, wild co-fermented skin contact wine on ice. It pairs perfectly with the food, and there’s even enough left to grab another glass and bring it to the edge of the infinity pool for a final sip or two.
Great, sustainable wine at a resort in Mexico? If that sounds like a pretty rare amenity, it definitely is. And though Rosewood already has a reputation for excellent hospitality, one of the luxury hotel group’s properties is delivering their world-class service in a surprising way. Las Ventanas al Paraiso, a resort in San Jose del Cabo, has built out the kind of wine program that might be expected at a property located in wine country somewhere in France or Italy, or domestically in a location like Napa. But Cabo? That isn’t necessarily a destination that’s been known for international, biodynamic and inventive wine programming.
Yet, thanks to the work of Geneviève Rioux, the hotel’s sommelier, and Rosewood’s Area Director of Wine for the Americas, that’s one of the unexpected luxuries this resort offers. Most people associate Mexico with agave spirits, reposados and añejos, or rare mezcals—and Las Ventanas has plenty of those available, particularly in their late night speakeasy, La Botica—but offering a robust selection of international choices for wine lovers is another way to impress guests who are traveling to Los Cabos from all over the world.
“We have an international clientele coming to Las Ventanas for celebrations, or just for the magic beauty of the hotel,” Rioux said. “Having a vibrant and generous wine program is an additional way to indulge our guests.” When she joined the property a few years ago, Rioux was tapped specifically to create a wine experience that would surprise and delight guests—and that offered something for everyone.
“Las Ventanas was looking for a crafted and unique wine list that’s international, showcasing great classics, but also small growers to discover, especially from organic, biodynamic and natural wine world,” she continued. “And we’ve also curated a Kosher wine program over the last few years.” (In a similar fashion, the kitchen staff at Las Ventanas has created Kosher menus that are prepared in separate areas from the rest of the food to pair well with the wine offerings.)
One issue she ran into as she began building out a global directory was just how difficult it can be to deal with importing wine into Mexico. So, Rioux did what plenty of passionate niche wine lovers have done before her in the same position—decided to import it herself. “As far as sourcing, in order to find all my little gems, I had to put in place our private importation from Europe and the USA,” Rioux said. “In that, we’re also proposing wines that are unique in Mexico.”
At the same time, she’s eager to introduce guests to local winemakers who are producing vintages that are on the same level as many of their European counterparts. “The Mexican wine scene is growing fast, and there are more and more wineries that are making wine with sometimes original blends and different styles depending on the region they’re from,” she noted. “There are still just a few wineries here that are exporting, so being in Mexico is a great opportunity for guests to discover them.”
Rounding out a list full of French, Italian and California bottles with selections from places like Dos Búhos (Two Owls), an organic vineyard in San Miguel de Allende, and Vena Cava or Mina Penélope via Valle de Guadalupe, the wine offerings at Las Ventanas also embrace Mexican winemakers who live up to Rioux’s impressive palate.
“From San Miguel de Allende, El Garambullo and Dos Buhos are offering fantastic wine in all its forms, from classic white and red to orange and Pet Nat,” she said. “We also love Dominios de las Abejas from Ojos Negros in Baja California. These wineries are also working on low intervention wines and definitely reflect the terroir.” Right now, the wine list at Las Ventanas is about 15% Mexican wineries, though Rioux would love to include more in the future. “My team and I would be thrilled to get even more from the emergent winemakers,” she noted. “Our commitment to sustainable wine is also very important in our selection.”
Located right on the beach in San Jose del Cabo, and equipped with eight pools, more than six bars and restaurants, a spa, and an on-site garden, this resort is known as one of the best hotels in the world because of the extreme attention to detail that the staff takes at every turn. Though the grounds are sprawling, there are only 84 rooms and suites, meaning there’s plenty of space for guests to spread out and feel comfortable, even when it’s high season.
The variety of different restaurants and cuisine styles at the hotel also means that the robust wine list is purpose-built to pair with many different flavors and moods. There’s Oaxacan-focused cuisine and an emphasis on Mexican heritage at the central Alebrije, a vibrant Indian restaurant—complete with a romantic sunken table experience—at Arbol, and more casual daytime (and poolside) offerings at Sea Grill, just to name a few.
For anyone that wants an even more exclusive, curated experience, though, there’s an additional option for private wine dinners in the property’s wine cellar, La Cava. After the guests give their tasting notes and preferences to the executive chef, Victor Palma, then Rioux selects wines to pair with the personalized menu he creates. “A dinner at La Cava is a culinary experience between the chef and sommelier,” Rioux explained. “It’s a moment where, in terms of wine, you can go out of the box and discover new horizons, from different winemaking processes to unknown grapes. And of course, it offers a deep dive into the understanding of the art of wine pairing.”
Expert wine pairing is a big part of what the wine-focused staff at Las Ventanas can offer to guests, especially since the restaurant selection encompasses so many cuisine styles. The variety in the food necessitates different varietals and styles of wine, even if the sheer breadth of the list makes it hard for Rioux to center on one bottle or style that stands out above all else. And as much as she loves including the Mexican wine in her well-rounded list, her choices are always going to center the best wine from anywhere in the world.
“It’s difficult to choose a favorite wine! I guess it depends on the moment,” she said. “I feel blessed to have Vodopivec wines made with the unique vitovska grape in long skin contact: so magic! With our food here, it is also so nice to have a great Chenin, pick any from Pierre Breton, Nicolas Reau, Domaine de la Garrelière or even Dos Buhos.”
And her definition of a great bottle of wine, regardless of region or producer, is always going to have three things: “energy, harmony, and that it’s mouth-watering.”
Learn more about Las Ventanas al Paraiso here.
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