Exploring The Country Of Georgia, An Ancient Oasis Of Wine And Food

One example of that resurgence is Kisi, a grape that almost went extinct during the Soviet years but has now been brought back with a vengeance by winemakers who are eager to use indigenous, Georgian grapes that represent their country’s remarkable viticulture. For instance, plenty of contemporary winemakers in Georgia still use the traditional qvevri, which are large clay vessels (very similar to amphora) for fermentation and aging—although what they refer to as “European” winemaking styles are also gaining traction.

Historically, the qvevri vessels are buried in the ground and the pressed grapes are left to ferment with skins—and sometimes seeds, and stems—for up to six months, yielding a wine that’s much closer in color to orange than white. It’s not really correct to lump in the wine made through this ancient process with the rest of the “orange wine” trend (Georgians and experts refer to their product as “amber wine”), but it certainly shares some characteristics with the skin contact style that’s been so popular lately.

Important note: Because most visitors don’t know Georgian, and here, locals only sparingly know English, it’s a wise idea to hire a guide and translator for your trip—our guide, Maka Tarashvili, was wonderful, and is available for hire. Before heading out to the wine country of Kakheti, most international travelers are best suited to fly into Georgia’s capital city of Tbilisi. If you’re already in central Europe, a flight over to Georgia is approximately four hours, so adding it on as a secondary destination is a pretty feasible option for American travelers.

Once in Tbilisi, bustling, contemporary hotels like the Rooms Hotel, or the incredibly central Tbilisi Marriott are great options for a few nights of exploring the city’s history and, of course, enjoying its superb food and wine. Standouts like Keto & Kote—which was recently added to the World’s 50 Best Discovery list—and Rigi Gastrodouqan serve classic Georgian dishes expertly paired with local wines.

On the red wine side, a dark, forceful grape called Saperavi dominates the conversation, much the way cabernet rules California and Pinot Noir is king in Oregon. Saperavi is one of the few teinturier winemaking grapes in the world, meaning its skin and its flesh are both dark red (even with most red wine grapes, the skin is dark red or purple but the flesh is pale). This means the wine it yields is so dark the Georgians sometimes refer to it as “black wine,” and given the depth of color, this actually makes more sense. This hearty, acidic grape is an ideal companion for the traditional salty meat and fish dishes that are also staples of the cuisine.

Though some Saperavi was so strong it was hard for me to enjoy, more balanced offerings from Teliani Valley Winery, winemakers based out in Kakheti, won me over to this big, bold red. Of course, their Kisi and qvevri Amber wines are excellent, too. Once out in Kakheti, though, the most impressive place we visited was the Nekresi Estate. This compound is a restaurant, boutique hotel, vineyard and winemaking facility—and they’re building an expansion of the hotel that will increase their hospitality capacity quite a bit for a launch in spring of 2025. They produce wonderful pet nats, sparkling wine, amber wines, and even a truffle-infused “chacha,” which is a traditional Georgian grape spirit that’s similar to grappa.

For a larger, more glamorous hotel option, the Tsinandali Estate Radisson Collection is a historic property that was once the home of Georgian poet Prince Alexander Chavchavadze. Set on 45 acres of manicured gardens, this luxurious hotel provides an excellent vantage for exploring the region. With five different restaurants and bars, a rooftop infinity pool, a spa with a Finnish sauna, steam room and outdoor pool, a full gym and the on-site Chavchavadze Palace Museum, the property is truly expansive.

Before you go, though, there’s one more wine region to explore—Kartli. Here you’ll find Iago, the first winemaker in Georgia to ever receive an organic certification, and a very devoted producer who has the best interests of both the planet—and his wine—as a top priority. A visit to his tiny winery, which is located in the same house where he raised his now adult children, feels more like entering the home of a family friend or beloved neighbor than a formal tasting room. End any trip to wine country here to taste a whole host of pet nat, frizzante, and of course qvevri wines, before heading back to Tbilisi and returning to daily life. Just make sure to pack some khinkali and Kisi in your suitcase to ease the pain.